SELVEDGE DENIM
SELVAGE DENIM?
Selvedge, or selvage (both are commonly seen and correct), is the edge of a fabric as it comes from the old shuttle loom weaving from one side to another, it creates the edge itself. These shuttle looms weave a narrower 30-inch (finished) or 35-inch (raw) fabric, which is on average half the width of modern projectile looms.
SELVEDGE DENIM VS WIDE DENIM
SELVEDGE FABRICS IS ONE OF THE OLDEST WEAVING TECHNICS FROM THE OLD DAYS, AND ALL THE MACHINES THAT TAKE PART IN THE PROCESS DOESN'T HAVE THE MODERN CONTROLS. WHICH LEAVES THE ORIGINAL CHARACTERISTICS ON THE FABRIC ITSELF. FOR EXAMPLE, SOME DEGREE OF LEG TWIST IS NORMAL, SOME KNOTS, ETC, AND IT ALSO SHOWS THE VINTAGE NATURAL OF THE SELVEDGE DENIM.
THE GRADING REQUIREMENTS ARE BASED ON ITS OWN UNIQUE 4-POINT SYSTEMS. PUT INTO CONSIDERATION THAT THE NATURE OF SELVEDGE DENIM AND THE GRADING METHOD USED SHOULD REFLECTS FROM THE OLD TIMES. SOME OF THE FLAWS ARE MEANT TO LEAVE ON THE FABRIC.
HOW IS KARSON DENIM DIFFERENT FROM OTHER SELVEDGE
WE WERE STARTED WITH THE KNOWLEDGE WITH THE JAPANESE COUNTERPART IN THE EARLY 1990S.
AND SINCE THEN WE KEPT THE TECHNICS AND WEAVING STYLE UNTIL TODAY.
WE MEANT TO KEPT SOME OF THE ORIGINAL FLAVOR ON THE FABRIC, YOU CAN CUT AROUND TO AVOID SHOWING ON THE JEANS, OR YOU CAN KEEP IT TO MAKE EVERY JEANS A LITTLE DIFFERENT.
YOU ARE NOT LOOKING FOR THE PERFECTION HERE, BUT YOU WILL GET THE BEST ORIGINAL FLAVOR OF SELVEDGE DENIM.
HOW MANY YARDS/METER DO I NEED TO MAKE A PAIR OF JEANS?
IN GENERAL, WE SUGGEST TO USE AROUND 3 - 3.3 YARDS (YDS) PER MEN'S 5-POCKET JEANS.
THERE ARE SOME DEFECTS LEFT ON THE FABRIC, YOU MAY WANT TO CUT AROUND AND MAKE A PERFECT JEANS. OR DEPENDING ON YOUR FLAVOR, YOU MAY WANT TO KEEP THOSE DEFECTS ON THE JEANS AS YOUR OWN SIGNATURE / UNIQUE DETAILS FROM THE OTHER JEANS.
WHAT TYPE OF SELVEDGE DENIM I SHOULD GET?
THERE ARE FEW OPTIONS OF RAW DENIM YOU CAN PICK
1. RAW RAW DENIM - THE FABRIC HASN'T BEEN THROUGH ANY FINISHING PROCESS. THE SHRINKAGE RATE IS VERY HIGH AND YOU WILL FIND HAIRY SURFACE. IT'S NORMALLY CALLED THE "RIGID" FROM THE OLD SAYING. FOR EXAMPLE, THE LEVI'S 501XX SHRINK TO FIT, HOPE IT RINGS THE BELL.
2. SANFORIZED - THE FABRIC HAS BEEN THROUGH A PROCESS CALLED "SANFORIZATION". THIS TYPE OF FABRIC IS SHRINK-PROOF VALUE (PRE-SHRUNK). THE SHRINKAGE RATE IS LESS THAN 1%.
3. DOUBLE PRE-SHRUNK - PROCESS IS SIMILAR TO SANFORIZED. BUT THE SHRINKAGE RATE IS CONTROLLED +/-3% (COTTON) WHICH ALLOW SOME ROOM FOR THE YARN MOVEMENT, AVOID OVER SHRUNK FROM SANFORIZATION.
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HASHTAG
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